Kiwi See the World through my eyes - Cambodia
Kiwi See the World “through my eyes”- Cambodia
We took a bus over the border into Cambodia and with quiet trepidation surveyed the view from the window. In many ways it reminded us of Lao. Lots of dilapidated villages, wooden shacks and extremely poor, a sharp contrast to the more affluent Vietnam we had left behind. We were however pleasantly surprised to arrive into Phnom Penh, which was a bustling, relatively clean glittering city, much to Michaels relief who had fretted and questioned us about our likely accommodation the whole way.
Our first day was to tour the Killing Fields and S-21 genocide museum.
A former high school converted into jail where thousands of Cambodians we're
brutally tortured, starved and murdered by the Khmer Rouge regime between 1975
-1979. A graphic and harrowing experience to look into the eyes of the men,
women and children catalogued and photographed on entering the jail never to
leave. 3 million victims over quarter of the population murdered by the end of this period. It was hard to see,
and I was moved to tears listening through headphones to the accounts of
survivors and testimonies read at war crimes hearings.
Empathy is
not one of Michaels strengths, so we had repeatedly talked to him in advance
about Cambodia’s dark history and why he should be respectful and considerate
of his surroundings. Throughout our visit to the sites he listened intently to
the tours and when questioned afterwards surprised us with his incite. He couldn’t
understand how a dictator such as Pol Pot had died in-home detention and even
expressed anger at how the Cambodian people had been treated. We took that as a
win!
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As
a treat for Michael we visited the Aeon Mall in Phnom Penh and was again
surprised by its quality. Here we
experienced another first on this trip. A 4DX cinema. Not actually knowing what
4dx was, we booked seats to see ‘Solo - A Star Wars story’. After the first
sixty seconds where we were blasted with cold fog and the chair tilted
turbulently, I was left wearing my drink, freezing cold and realising it was
going to be a long movie! While fun poor Michael protested that 4 DX is just too
distracting!!
Apart
from a few heat related upsets Michael has settled down again after losing
ground in Vietnam. Cambodia is certainly more laid back, quieter, less people
and barely any traffic so we can walk more freely in the streets without him
getting so stressed and upset. We have also been more consistent with a
routine, making sure he has down time in the afternoons to chill, watch U tube
and listen to music.
Siem Reap
A
popular tourist spot in the North west of Cambodia was another must do place.
The city itself is drab but it’s the gateway to the vast complex of ruins
dating between the 9th – 15th centuries. We found ourselves a nice hotel with a
beautiful pool and Michael was suitably impressed, so much so we struggled to
get him to leave the pristine hotel and venture into the streets beyond.
Poverty is not hard to find in Cambodia. Foul rubbish and the stench of
excrement from drains would lead daily to a torrent of abuse on how uncivilised
Asia is and why did we have to come here. We need to go home!
He
did however enjoy our exertion to the temple complex. His imagination sparked
from Unchartered PlayStation game where Nathan Drake hunts through temples to
seek treasure and relics. Yes, I even know the characters names now too!!
Michaels
favourite was the Ta Prohm temple used in the tomb raider movie. In character
he took off exploring all the intricate passage ways and found some amazing
sights alas no treasure. Oozing charm,
the rundown ruins, overgrown by the jungle and trees and was by far the
highlight of all the temples we visited. Our exploration uncovered even a
hidden buddha and believe it or not a dinosaur! There was treasure to be found
after all!
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Another
favourite temple was Banteay Srie, Citadel of the women also known as the Pink temple.
Made of red sandstone intricate carved and much smaller than the other temples.
A quiet, romantic setting and mum enjoyed this site.
Our
hotel was situated only a short distance to Pub street, a lively area full of
bars and restaurants but found we were plagued by touts and beggars, mostly victims
of land mines. Once again Michaels complete lack of empathy became apparent by
telling people abruptly NO and to go away. While there are signs saying as
such, his complete lack of compassion for others really disappoints Jason and I
who have struggled with some of the sights we’ve seen. As a result, I have been scolded on numerous
occasions for giving away food or money to beggars. They should apparently just
“get a job and stop being lazy”. A young girl begging for my half-eaten
ice cream really distressed me, bedraggled and filthy she stood wearing just an
oversized t-shirt and mum close by clearly malnourished was sat cradling
another sleeping child. Michael was furious after I had handed it over
and proceeded to shoo the girl away. I was so cross, I followed her and pressed
some money into mum's hands. His lack of compassion and empathy for others is
hard for us to understand. His black and white hard wiring may become a
strength in an ever-increasing analytical world but without kindness and
empathy what a sad world it will be.
Battambang
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Our
accommodation while presenting as a hotel was run more like a hostel. Very laid
back with lots of young backpackers partying and drugs openly smoked and sold
behind the bar. Poor Michael was furious
after we made him leave the pool table because of the strong weed atmosphere and
after that told anyone that lit up loudly it's illegal and it’s NOT OK to do
around kids!
One
of Michael's most endearing qualities is how he says it as he sees it.
Not always appropriate but never the less his black and white view on life can
often give a refreshing view on our surroundings. He has been scathing at the volume
of rubbish plastic and sewage that we have come across on the beaches so far in
Asia and frequently has told strangers off for littering. Our clean, green,
little kiwi perhaps having a rose-tinted view on our own environment back home.
He has refused to get on a bus until he could find a bin to put his rubbish in
and launched into a furious rant at the driver who just grabbed the bottle and
threw on the verge. He looked bemused and fortunately had no English to
understand the rant from Michael, who proceeded to tell him that this was his
future world that he was destroying and thanks to him the future is
screwed cause he's too lazy to use a bin!
Otres Beach
Unfortunately,
the raining season caught up with us and we spent 4 days trapped in a hotel
room with torrential rain, wind and thunderstorms raging all around us. Otres
beach renown as a tranquil retreat for backpackers to relax with great food, snorkelling
and island hopping was not really as we had imagined. Otres Village was a
shambolic nest of huts, restaurants and hotels with a river of orange gulpy
clay to wade through daily. We did however find some good food which became the
highlight of our day but without the weather there was little else to do in the
area. Fortunately, the beach makes up
for the squalor erected alongside, although we decided not to swim as the
rubbish and rivers of polluted rank water that flowed from the village
into the ocean was disgusting and so sad to see.
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Hotel bound we got to see
the ABs demolish France. Yah
👍 However we
had to abandoned plans to visit the islands. Probably fortuitous given that we
had planned to stay in a Bamboo hut on the beach with just a mosquito net and
no tv. With Michaels new anxiety towards
crawling bugs that could well have proven a challenge! So instead we’ve packed
up for Kampot with fingers crossed the sun finds us again.
Kampot
An overcrowded bus station which reeked of sewage was not the best start to
our journey to Kampot which got worse after we packed into a bus with 10 more
people than it could hold. Michael was clearly rattled and objected to his
surroundings the whole way, although there was little we could do to appease
him.
The
situation worsening when we arrived at our accommodation to find that it was
more of a hippie resort, an eco-pool, another way of describing green and our
room was full of guess what? Yep “ants!” to be fair to him they were big ants
too and he promptly melted down. There were no negotiations, he was past that
point. There was little left to do but to leave. Apologising to the staff as
Michael was screaming for me to hurry up, we departed as quickly as we had
arrived and hunted down another hotel. After having to inspect the room before
paying we settled for the night only to wake up in the morning soaked with the
air con dripping on me all night and ants all over our bags.
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As
it turned out, Kampot was one of our favourite destinations in Cambodia. We
loved exploring the local countryside, rice paddies and seeing how people live,
work and play, although Michael continued to struggle with the squalor, smell
and the constant attention from the locals. We took a trip into the spooky Bokor mountains,
exploring the abandoned structures neglected through conflict and took a boat
ride down the river to check out fire flies. Unfortunately, the swarms of biting
bugs left him leaping around the deck, hitting himself and screaming to get off!
Always entertaining for the locals when we take Michael out of his comfort
zone!!
A
bull and cart ride around the Kampot Pepper plantation was without a doubt a
highlight for Michael who just loved the experience. It was also another opportunity
for Mum and Dad to have a little chuckle at Mr hygiene’s expense. He was
blissfully unaware that the hat plonked on to his head, had only minutes
earlier been used to shield mum from a bull urinating. 😊
I know not nice, but honestly the laughs keep us sane!
Cambodia,
a country where 1 in four were murdered, all the intellects, professionals,
teachers, leaving a huge gap in society. The average age of Cambodia being only
25, this is a young country building itself up from the ground once again.
Poverty thrives here but unlike other parts of Asia the Cambodians work hard at
carving out a living from the ruins of its past. Building homes, new infrastructure,
re-educating and rebuilding their country. There are lots of ways
Cambodia still needs to grow but you can't help admiring their strength of
character and tenacity.
On
the whole Cambodia has been a great trip. Michael has been relaxed and happier
than he was in Vietnam. He has become a lot more confident when talking with
strangers and has been more open to trying new experiences. He has been eating
more local food, provided of course it’s in a restaurant and not from the side
of the road. He is still checking our
room every night for bugs but has reduced the number of times he visits the
toilet during every meal in case of diarrhoea, to now once or twice!! He is still obviously very anxious as we must
repeat everything constantly until he’s satisfied he knows what we are doing
and why. We have replaced the ‘empty bottles’ with drum sticks and restricted
him to drumming in the hotel but as a result we have now noticed he’s started
to habitually pull and wobble his teeth constantly instead. Another area we need
to work on, but he is doing well. He still tells us daily that he wants to go
home but now not until after we’ve done Euro Disney in August! Yes, that
progress! When we challenge him why, given all the amazing experiences he’s
having, he replies that he just feels safer at home. ☹ The big wide world still
it appears, a scary and frightening place for our young man.
What an absolutely amazing adventure you are having! I’m so enjoying following your progress-would love to emulate your trip one day! Will have to pick your brain when you get home! So inspiring!!!
ReplyDeleteThanks Larissa. happy to help you where we can x
DeleteLove Michael's bravery.
ReplyDeleteHe's a Rockstar ! You wont recognise this kid when we return. So proud of him !!
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