Who goes to Thailand and doesn't go to the beach?

Who goes to Thailand and doesn't go to the beach?

We did! A whole month and we see didn't see any of Thailand's spectacular white beaches, crystal clear waters or spectacular islands. No, we spent a month immersed in Thailand's rich diverse culture, history and enjoying the amazing food and wonderful hospitality. Initially envious of the tourists heading south for the beach, we headed north and didn't regret one moment of our trip.

Thailand, formerly known as Siam, is a fascinating country, predominately Buddhist, there are no shortage of amazing temples and shrines to Buddha throughout the country. Some of the most spectacular in Bangkok. For those who didn't read our last blog, here's the link to our ‘Seven days in Bangkok’. https://kiwiseetheworld.blogspot.my/

Thailand has a fascinating history dating back to the 10^th century, with many ancient ruins from the Khmer Empire to more recent history. It’s worth taking some time to research and read about Thailand’s history before visiting, which will add context to the many historical sites that are available to visit. 

We took advantage of a day tour from Bangkok to reach our next destination, Kanchanaburi. We were collected from our hotel, complete with backpacks and visited the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market on route. The market situated about 100kms from Bangkok, was a vibrant assortment of colours, noises and smells. Full of boats selling flowers, fruit and wares, the market is extremely picturesque, but sadly also very touristy.  We preferred the meandering boat ride through neighbouring villages, waving to locals and seeing how Thai live alongside the network of waterways. The trip also included a visit to Kanchanaburi war cemetery, the river Kwai and museum. The trip was an enjoyable way to make the two-hour journey into a full day of sightseeing. They were kind enough to actually drop us at our hotel, before heading back to Bangkok with the others. 

 

The museum was underwhelming, full of Japanese artefacts from the war and somewhat disjointed. During our stay in the area we found the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre located alongside the cemetery, which was amazing and definitely worth the visit. Here we gained a more thorough insight into the sombre history behind ‘The Death railway’. 12,000 prisoners of war and 70,000 forced Asians Labourers died building the line which crosses the River Kwai. Many of which were Australasian, British and Europeans who died of malnutrition, disease and mistreatment by the Japanese and lay in the cemetery alongside.

We took the old train back to Bangkok, which was an experience in its self.  First time on a train for Michael, it was cool to stand and hang out the window as the train chugged along, watching the landscape pass us by, through the rural villages, rice fields and back into the suburbs of Bangkok.

 

Our plan to navigate our way slowly through Bangkok back to the airport was abandoned due to Michael's moaning, so we took a taxi. I have to say, we aren't your average backpackers as we do tend to take the easy route, not necessarily the cheapest where possible.  A trend we need to change if we are going to stretch the budget for 12 months. Although it has paid off on occasions. We discovered it was actually cheaper to fly to Chiang Mai than taking the 12-hour bus ride and enduring Michael moaning the whole way! We call that a WIN!

Chiang Mai is a charming city so much cooler than Bangkok, less congested and lots of character.  Our hotel was beautifully located, only a 10-minute walk to the old city, the night markets and the river.  Jason proudly boasted he had found us a pool in budget, but alas was more of a paddling pool and indoors so didn't count!  There are around 12 different markets around Chiang Mai, including the Night Bazaar every evening and the Sunday walking street market through the heart of the old city, filled with local arts and crafts as well as the usual tourist tat. Muang Mai Market was one of our favourites, with an abundance of deliciously stacked fresh fruit and vegetables and grilled street food. Warorot market close by, offers a 3-storey array of local product at local prices, where you can buy anything from fresh fish often still swimming, fishing reels, clothing, dried fruits and plasticware. We spent hours rambling through little alley ways, chatting with locals and trying new local delicacies.

 

The best way to see Chiang Mai is to hire a bike at around $150 baht each and once you have seen the old city, escape into the backstreets of the Wualai district and investigate the numerous silverware and lacquer workshops. The area oozes character and you can eat like a king for as little as 50 baht. The traffic looks overwhelming but actually quite easy to navigate on a bike. Infact we found the cars, used to scooters, a lot more considerate of bikes than back home in NZ.
If bikes are not your thing then you can stop a local Songthaew, a red pickup bus for as little as 30 baht around the city or take a more expensive Tuk Tuk and negotiate your fare.

There are lots of beautiful walks around Chiang Mai. We trekked the 11.53 km straight up the mountain to the temple Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Apparently, every year in May thousands of people make a pilgrimage starting at the front gate of Chiang Mai University on Huay Kaew Road and going all the way up the mountain to the temple (with free food and drinks along the way!) Without that luxury start early before heat of the day and take plenty of water! Starting at the zoo you can follow a trail leading up to Huay kaew waterfalls and then on to a hidden temple on Doi Suthep called Wat Palat. It felt like a real adventure following the scrap of monks’ robes tied around the trees, although poor Michaels anxiety reached an all time high. Convinced we were lost, terrified of spiders, snakes, noises the undergrowth, panic set in, leaving him a tearful, angry mess. Pushing him out of him comfort zone is challenging for us all!

 

Another must do while is Thailand is to watch a Muay Thai fight. Wasn't cheap but was a fun night out. Michael seems to attract all the ladies and before long we were in a bar playing pool with the locals with front row seats reserved for the fight!  Another first for Michael who really enjoyed himself and it was awesome to see him relax and interact socially, even teaching the locals how to do the floss dance!! 

We booked a couple of tours in Bangkok to do in Chiang Mai, which actually worked out far cheaper than booking tours locally. The alternative is doing the activities yourself by taxi or scooter, however Transport for 3 of us starts to push the price up and you miss out on all the little extras that the local guides know, that make your trip memorable.

We took a trek into the Mae Wang National park which was definitely one of the highlights of our trip so far. It was incredibly cathartic to escape the fumes of the city and relax under a canopy of trees and cascading waterfalls. We visited Mae Wang Waterfall, where we cooled off with a swim and then trekked to an elephant camp where we experienced feeding and bathing the elephants. Such majestic, incredible creatures, it’s sad to see them chained and touted for the tourists, although to be fair, the ones we encountered seemed well cared for and very content.  The area offers lots of water activities on Maewang river including tubing and kayaking, however we took the more tranquil approach and floated our way back down the mountain on bamboo rafts. It was heaps of fun floating through rapids and navigating around obstacles. The river activity attracts lots of locals and a few riverside bars have been constructed along route with an ingenuous basket pulley system to lower beer and food down to riverside or moored bamboo rafts! A must do, but expect to get wet as water fights with the locals left us soaked, but we had such a great time.

We travelled further north to Chiang Rai, which was again an amazing journey. The countryside more mountainous and lush and the area felt more affluent. We took a boat trip across the Mek Kong river at the golden triangle. Notoriously named due to the drug smuggling of Opium between Thailand, Myanmar and Laos where they originally traded in gold. Our short stop into Laos treated us to snake and tiger penis whiskey to loosen you up to purchase cheap goods. Jason was happy after buying a carton of 200 cigarettes for 100baht, $6.00!

We also visited the Kayan people in Karen Long neck village. The tribe known for their women wearing neck rings made of brass, origionate from Myanmar (formerly Burma) who came to Thailand as refugees and illegal immigrants. Separate from modern Thailand, they have maintained their traditions and make and sell crafts to sustain themselves. While touristy we were glad we visited the villages as many of the young Karen women are breaking with tradition and it is estimated that the neck lengthening practice only has a few generations of life left. 

While in Chiang Rai we visited what has to be my favourite temple so far. The White Temple, designed and built only in 2002 as the People Temple, it attracts thousands of visitors and is extremely busy. Made from entirely cement and glass, it is stunning and the glistens in the sunlight.  Visitors cross over an ornate bridge from ‘hell to ultimate paradise’. We loved the quirky ornamentation hanging from trees and hidden inside the majestic interior murals. Look closely and you will be amazed at what you’ll find!

 

We have really enjoyed Thailand and have developed a genuine fondness for the Thai people. The people are again so friendly and willing to help you.  After watching how Thai interact with travellers from different countries, kiwis are well liked here. We have often found ourselves being treated like VİPs in sharp contrast to say a group of Chinese tourists. We have made a point to talk with the locals we have met, tried foods that have been offered and had lots of good humoured laughs, often at our expense! Thai love to talk and are proud people who enjoy sharing their culture with us.  We've learnt the basics to say hello and thank you and our effort is always warmly received and reciprocated. We will definitely revisit Thailand, although next time will have to check out those beaches too!